Hi,
I'm new to tris having completed three mini ones in the past 2 months. I'm looking to do a sprint distance tri as my next one and maybe an olympic one next year. I'd really like to get some cycling shoes, but was not sure whether cycling or tri shoes would be best. I was wandering what people thought on carbon vs non carbon soles, velcro vs clip fastener. I don't want to buy a pair for racing and one for training so was worried that the tri shoes wouldn't last as long as cycling ones. What do you think? Was also wondering where I could purchase shoes over the internet? I'm in the country so it is hard to find a range of shoes to look at/try on and I don't plan on going to the city for a few months.
Thanks

Get a pair of Shimano TR02 shoes.

End of story!

Hi Rachel49, whilst you don't say where in the country you are located, my suggestion would be if there are cyclists around either female or some juniors, ask them if you can try some of their shoes on to see what fits best. Some brands do fit certain foot types better than others and if the shoes are not comfortable you will curse them every time you have to ride in them.
Carbon soles will last longer, are stiffer and cost more, than nylon soled shoes. as for velcro only straps versus clip etc. This is more personal choice and budget. If you are going to do a bit of road racing and maybe some longer rides, then road type of shoes may be better. This decision will also be influenced by when you put your feet into them in triathlons, i.e. before you mount the bike or once you are on. Velcro straps work either way. CLips are harder to open and cloe with one hand when you are on the bike.
I have Sidi T1 which are unreal for tri's very easy to get in and out of. I also have Shimano road shoes for training and road racing.
Good luck and do some research and try before you buy as they are a costly error if you get it wrong.

Sorry Lucky legs but your reply is like telling a runner who wants to do road and trail runs to get Nike air pegasus, end of story. Might work for you but not very helpful

Hi Rachel
I bought myself some cycling shoes a few months ago after going through the exact same thoughts as you.
I agree with B+, you really need to try the shoes on. I went into a few shops to try a few makes and was very surprised by the difference in fit. Some shoes I was a size 44, others 46, some in 46 were too wide etc etc.
I've ended up going with a pair of DMT road shoes because I don't do that many tri's and I'm so slow a few extra seconds to get the shoes on and off isn't going to make much difference.

My local bike shop also set me up on the bike with the new shoes as part of the service (blatant plug for Hornsby Cycles - Thanks Alex) So it might be worth the trip to get yourself a pair of shoes that fit your feet and then get set up on the bike properly, its amazing what a difference a few millimetres can make.

B+,

The TR02 has a single wide velcro fastening strap, that is reversed to fasten from outside in, rather than the normal inside out.

This system works 100% fine for road cycling, so there is no further question there. It is also the best system for triathlon use as well.

Velcro is the only choice for simple and fast securing the shoe - one handed while on the move. Having the single strap means only one strap to frig with when trying to secure your foot, which means its safer and faster to use. The reverse mounting stops it jamming up into the drivetrain and is faster and safer to adjust as it is easier to pull the strap down on the outside of your foot than inside whilst riding. The large strap size gives both better wear confort as well as an easy thing to grap hold of and adjust.

The carbon sole is the only one to consider. Like pretty much all cycling shoes, it will last forever. So I recommend to buy the best one first time, rather then second or third (like what I did).

I think you'd be crazy to buy a shoe with multiple velcro straps, clips (worse still) or normal mounted velcro straps, for tri use. But, if you want to compromise, I guess there are cheaper, less safe and slower options out there.

BTW - I don't work for Shimano and I would never recommend Nike ;)

Ah yes Lilly, but herein lies the problem ...

I have to agree with B+ on all the advice, and for the need to shop around. The Shimano might not be a perfect fit (width, toebox etc...) and other shoes should be tried. Seeing that cycling shoes are such a relatively hard and unforgiving shoe, particularly those with carbon soles, you need to get that fit exactly right. You can't be a half-size off like you can sometimes get away with in softer, stretchable running shoes.

Rachael, you can certainly buy easily enough over the net (either through ebay, cyclink, bikestore, phantom cycles etc...) but you really need to be 100% sure of the sizing first. You should also be clear on exactly what you want your shoe to achieve. Carbon soled shoes are clearly superior, but for someone starting out in tris, with an aluminium frame bike, entry-level pedals and a tight budget, then the nylon-soled shoes are certainly going to be good enough (and won't break the bank).

And as for various brands - sorry Lilly, but I'm a convert from Shimano to Nike ;) I think the Nike T-Speeds have fixed a lot of the problems the Shimanos had and are the best shoes I've ever used (piccie to follow)

... and not only do they employ the same outside/in strap and have a stiff fingerloop at the heel of the shoe to assist entry, IMHO they look better too ;)

Thanks for all your replies! I have been looking at Shimano and Sidi as they are the only brands that are supplied here, but unfortunately they either don't have my size to try on or don't stock any shoes in the store. I think I am just going to have to wait until I go to the city! Will have to start thinking of excuses to go now! Can anyone recommend a store in Adelaide or Melbourne which would be a good place to start?

Hey Miners,
That's one flash pair of shoes!

I'm still using TR01 Shimanos. Single strap velcro is preferable if you want to do sprint tri's.

Runningwolf, you need a fast transition to make up time lost in the bin! How's the model T going?

I wear two-strap shoes for triathlons and I leave them on my bike. I leave the lower strap a bit looser so I can get my foot in - it's still more snug than one without adjustment there, or I can tighten it later in the race while cruising down a hill. I have high arches so the straps tend to slip out, so I sewed a really big button onto the very end of my strap so I can't pull it through.

Hi Rachel 49,
I would have to aggree with Minersrun and other posters that to get the right shoe to fit and to get set up right is vital.

I bought some great shoes and pedals off ebay at a bargain price and put the cleats on myself. Within a week or two, I had buggered up my knees and have spent $130 on a bike fit, $200+ on physio bills and been frustrated as I can't run or ride porperly again yet.

The shoes are just slightly too big and the pedals weren't set up directly under the balls of my feet. So my bargain turned out to be very expensive. :rolleyes:

When you are first starting out, it is hard to know what is a good fit for bike shoes feels like. That is what I have found anyway. Maybe I have odd feet :)

Good luck!

first up I agree with all the advice from those above and have used both the Shimano TR1 and the Sidi's. Although the Sidi's are not as rigid a sole and have two straps I vastly prefer them!

This illustrates the fact that you have to find the shoe that's best for you! Horses for courses. Another tip is that if you know your sizing don't be afraid of buying them online - I have gotten much better pricing that way.

I was told carbon soles are a waste of money for a shoe as small as what I would need size 37/38.
I was just wondering what people thought on this?

I'm a size 39 and my boyfriend's shoes are size 46 or 47 or something. He has fancy carbon soled ones and they weight a hell of a lot more than my plastic soled ones do. Also, the reduced length of mine mean that the flex is barely noticeable anyway.

I'd recommend getting a good pair of shoes at a price you're comfortable with, and if you turn out to be brilliant, someone will sponsor you anyway, and you'll get free carbon-soled ones.

Following on - any advice on how to manage orthotics into a cycling shoe?? I have no idea if they are required when cycling or not - I wear mine for all walking, running and toe-clip cycling (since they are in my runners).

Some people can fit the same orthotics in - it depends upon your cycling shoes. Some people get different orthotics for cycling shoes. Some people use Lemond LeWedge. I find all these unnecessary and have found cleat adjustment sufficient, but then, I only use my orthotics for running.

Chris I have seperate pairs for the bike shoes and for my walking/running shoes. The main difference in the 2 pairs is that my cycle ones are slightly thinner than my running ones and have been cut off at the front to allow my toes more room as the toe box is smaller on cycling shoes. Cycle shoes in general are thighter/thinner/smaller than runners and wlking shoes so what happens if you just stuff your orthodics into them is that your feet feel cramped and your heel can sit up higher in the cycle shoe.
Bear in mind that depending on why you have orthodics you may not need them for cycling. I would suggest speaking to who ever diagnosed and made your currnt pair for you. They will know best if you need a pair to ride in.

Hi, I am hoping to get some advice on shoes from all you experienced guys out there. I have just purchased my first ever pair of cycling shoes. They are Shimano TR02s. The background to my question is as follows. I could find a a size 46 in the TR02s in stores but felt these were too small as my big toe pushed against the end of the shoe, when I was standing. I never tried them on, on the bike. I wasn't sure if I needed size 47 or 48. I could not find a store with these sizes in stock and of the 4 stores I contacted/visited, none would bring in both sizes to allow me to determine which size I needed, they would only bring in one of the two sizes and then I would be committed to purchasing that pair (they wanted a deposit). I rang Shimano to see if they could tell me which stores might have these sizes but unfortunately they could not. However they did tell me that the sizes were consistent across all their show models, so if I could find a store with any shimanos on those sizes then I could try them on and determine which size I needed. I did this. With the size 47, my big toe still brushed against end of the shoe and was OK with the size 48. (Again I did not try these on, on the bike). I now have the TR02s in a size 48. The length seems fine when I am standing but seems to be too long when I am on the bike. Also I have a fair bit of movement in the heel (ie my heel moves up and down in the shoe, but does not slip out). This movement is more than in my running shoe. So now I am thinking I might have picked too big a pair of shoes, perhaps the 46 and 47 would have been better, if only I had tried them on on the bike.

So my question really is, should you feel a difference in the fit when you are standing on the ground versus on the bike? Should the fit of the shoe be similar to a normal shoe or a bit different (eg a tighter fit)? How much movement should occur in the heel (given these are single strap shoes).

These are probably questions which have a "depends" type answer but I am thinking at the moment to seeling these shoes on ebay, wear the loss as a result and then go to one of the much bigger stores in the city and insist on testing the various sizes on a bike (on a windtrainer) in the store before making any subsequent purchases.

Any advice you guys can give me, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

hmmm ... not sure, and don't know enough about bikes to give you good advice. O Runner would be a good bet.

However, I can say that my cycling shoes feel comfortable nad have a good fit when both standing and riding. I actually never thought about there being a likelihood of a difference between the fit in either position?

Mate i have ridden over 40,000km in my Nike bike shoes and they are a size smaller than any other shoe I wear. In bike shoes always buy shoes that are snug and would prob be too small to walk or run in.
You need to remember that the foot does not move in a bike shoe so blisters are not an issue and that movement in a bike shoe will cause a reduction in power.

My advice is take em back and get the small ones or try a set of carnac innersoles. They have excellent arch support and totally transform any bike shoe I have ever used all for about $20.

Rachel 49.
Don't forget also to check, if the holes in the soles of your new shoes will take the cleats required for your pedals. Most of the shoes can accomodate all hole patterns but some will take one type of the cleat only. It'd be a bugger to find out at home that's not the cleat you need.

If you have only just ridden in them I would take them back to the bike shop and see if they can get the size changed for you or contact Shimano direct and see if they will support you and stand by their product. Both businesses would want to help you as this means you will most probably buy other products from them down the track.

As to the actual fit... my shoes are just a snug fit although my SIDI's are one size smaller than my Shimano's. SIDI one velcro strap, Shimano 2 velcro + ratchet closure system.
Cleat position will also influence foot movement. If your cleats are to far forward you will be pulling your foot around more in your shoe than if they are positioned better over the pedal axle.

I agree. I purchased a pair of these a few weeks ago and they fit like a glove. Best bike shoes I've ever owned.

I don't wear orthotics in cycle shoes. No impact, therefore I don't see a need for them in cycle shoes.

I recently purchased a pair of tri shoes (Carnac TRS7) the same size as my road shoes and have found that my heel moves around quite a bit compared to my roadies (Diadora).

Is this typical of single strap shoes? If so, should I have bought the next size down in the tri shoes for a tighter (and possibly less comfortable) fit or should I just accept this as part and parcel of this shoe type?

Mango,

Those shoes sound too big. Cycle shoes are generally a smaller size than your normal shoes. There shouldn't be any heel slip and they should fit like a glove. I found my cycle shoes (SIDI T1's) slightly too tight the first time I rode in them, but now they are completely comfortable and do not shift on my foot at all.

Mango,
I also forgot to mention that my shoes have two straps, although I forget the bottom one is there as I don't need to touch it at all. The foot slip may be due to different brand sizing. As B+ said the SIDI shoes are a size smaller than Shimano's. It may be the same with Carnac/Diadora. I suggest trying on a smaller size.

As a pod, I'd have to agree that the majority who wear orths for running could skip them for cycling. With very little impact, there would be minimal benefit. If your problem is more forefoot alignment however, some wedging under the ball of your foot could be helpful, but as most bike shoes are so tight, bulk could be an issue.

One thing I need to sort out is a pedal lift for my shorter leg(not that leg miners!) (13mm total). Anybody use a lift already? Doesn't cause pain yet but it's hard to stay balanced on the saddle.

once again like most people have have said SHIMANO TR02's, unbelievable.

Thanks Rachel. Part of the problem is my relatively narrow foot which isn't too helpful given tri shoes don't have the level of adjustability and support that multi-strap road shoes afford. That said I am determined to find a pair of tri shoes that suit my foot type but I hope I don't break the bank in the process!