I have deceided that I am going to buy a bike, with the aim of building up to do a half ironman in the next year or two. I don't know anything about bikes and I don't want to spend heaps of money (maybe around $1000).

I went to Clarence street cyclery and the guy suggested that this might meet my needs for a triathlon beginer. The other option is buying a higher quality second hand bike however the 5 year warrarnty on parts and lifetime on the frame from Clarence Street is nice.

What do other biker type people think? That is, for a guy just wanting to have a go, is there a reason to spend more money for better components, lighter frame etc? Will I need to upgrade sooner rather than later if I get more serious down the track? And are tri-bars essential?

Any advice will be much appreciated.

Hey burglar - great to hear of your goals, and good to see so many questions. There is a bit to get through to answer them all, and I might come back and add another 2 cents worth later.

But off the top of my head, I'd probably recommend against buying a new bike like the Trek 1000. If you've only got a limited budget, and aren't sure whether you'll get into the sport or not, you may be better off with a half-decent 2nd-hand bike wiht better components - provided you get one that fits you well.

The reason I suggest that is that if you DO get into Tris, then you'll likely want to upgrade from the Trek pretty soon. Obviously nothing wrong with Treks, but the Sora shifters on this spec bike for example are a little on the cheap side, as are some of the other components. I might be wrong, and I'd be happy to hear others' comments, but I think that you wouldn't need the 5 year warranty as you'd very likely upgrade well within that period if you started on this model. A decent 2nd-hand model will give you the same idea of whether you're going to enjoy multi-sport or not.

If you're pretty sure you'll stick with it, then you're probably better off spending closer to $2000 to get yourself something that will race well, can grow with you, and still get cred at the coffee shops ;) The Trek 1400 is probably the entry-level model that might best do that for you.

Remember also that as a general rule, Treks are slightly more expensive than other makes - so you'd probably be able to buy a similar priced Giant, Avanti or Scott with better componentry. I wouldn't be worried about frame weight at this point in time.

Oh, I wouldn't worry about tri-bars at this stage either if you're new to cycling. Get yourself enjoying bike riding firstly, and then you can worry about getting an aerobar setup that suits you if tris are something you might stick with.

Not my strong suit as a recent post demonstrated. However, from what I have been told, bikes depreciate VERY quickly, so second-hand bikes in good condition can represent bargains.

eBay has a LOT of bikes, but to the uninitiated like you and I, this can be a mine field, with getting ripped off just a likely as saving a load of cash.

So perhaps one or more of the more entrepenuerial bike experts could start a service whereby they will find you a good bike on eBay (possibly even managing the bidding) for a small fee...

You should be able to buy a good bike for $1000. If you buy a decent frame you could always upgrade your componants later on, ie race wheels, gears, pedals, stem and handlebars etc....

Once you buy your bike it is a really, really good idea to have it set up for your body. Poor setup will result in pins and needless in your hands, a sore back and minimum power output into those pedals. A bad fiiting bike is a very uncomfortable ride!!! It may be a good idea to see someone before buying the bike so they can advise you on frame size.

Home that helps! Goodluck!

Hey hamburglar,

I agree with what both Miners and Sparkie say - there are definitely pros and cons for buying bikes brand new versus a better quality second-hand bike.

I would add a couple of extra things:
- whether you buy new or second hand, make sure the bike is the right size for you!! I see it time and time again, people who have been ripped off by some shoddy bike shop or second-hand seller offloading them a bike at a 'great price' which is in reality too big or too small for the buyer.
A reputable bike shop (I believe Clarence St is one of the best, and there are others in Sydney) will take your measurements and recommend the correct size for you. If you buy from them, they generally set you up on it (ie correct seat height, stem length etc) for free. Most bike shops charge you a fee to do a set up on a bike bought elsewhere. I can't say enough how important it is to be correctly positioned on the right size bike!!!
- If you buy from a bike shop, you get a warranty (Trek has one of the best warranties around) and usually some free servicing. If you're new to bikes, probably best to leave servicing to the experts. You dont get these things if you buy second hand.
- Often with shop bought bikes, you can change some of the parts over (stem, seat, pedals) at no charge. Second hand, its always buyer beware.
- Yes, new bikes depreciate quickly, and you can quite often get very good quality second hand ones for much cheaper than new. One of the best places is the bicycling australia online classifieds

Good luck with the ironmans and hope you find a bike that takes you all the way!

B-Fer

DISCLOSURE: I have a financial interest in a bicycle shop.

Hello again!!

I forgot to mention...never buy second hand wheels!
You don't know how many pot holes they have gone through to throw out the wheels alignment...it can make a difference!

The other downside to buying a beautiful new frame is the chance you may crash and completely ruin it!

P.S I was a pro cyclist for a few years so I sort of know what I'm on about!!!

Hi Hamburglar,

I faced the same dilema 12 months ago. I didn't know if I would like riding or not, but figured once I had the bike I had it for life, I could always come back to it later. I went for the new bike option. Mainly because Ballarat only has one bike store that sells second hand road bikes, and they didn't have much on offer. Unless your pretty well researched, or have cycling buddies to help you, buying secondhand from anywhere but a good bike shop is a bit of a gamble.

I bought an Avanti Vivace with Tiagra components carbon forks and seatpost. As it was TdF (Tour De France) time the winter specials were in full swing and I got it for $1350 (down from $1499). It's been great as a first road bike, and I've done one tri and a duathlon on it, as well as ~3500 training k's.

Decide if you want a double or triple chainring up front, this is a tough one. I went a double and it was tough on the hills for while, but am now allright on all but the worst hills. If you aren't concerned about the 'look' of being a roadie then get a triple and spin up those hills with a smile. having said that I'd still get a double for my next bike, now that I've got my bike legs.

As the others above have mentioned, getting it fitted correctly is THE most important thing you can do. DO NOT buy a second hand bike unless you have a reasonable idea of the frame size that will suit you (ask at the shop where you plan to get fitted), and then get it fitted at a reputable bike shop.

I must admit that if I went back in time, knowing that I would love cycling as much as I do now, I would have forked out for a 105 level bike at least (especially the nice new 10 speed setup). But like you I had no idea how I would take to it. So if you can afford it get a 105 level from one of the less expensive, but reputable brands (Avanti, Felt or Giant). And wait a few weeks for the specials to hit, never pay retail for a new bike!

Allow another $400 for the bits: mini pump, seat bag, spare tubes, punture kit, multi tool, helmet, gloves, cycling shoes (clipless ones), cycle computer (a must have, get the store to fit it free)

Summary:
1. Minimum Tiagra, Ideal 105 level
2. Carbon forks and seat post for comfort.
3. Only buy when on special
4. Allow cash for the extras that you need.

Great reply alchemy - I think you negated the additional 2 cents from me! Particularly good pick-up mentioning the cost of "other" necessary items.

While B-fer will probably hate me for this, there are some great deals to be made on components & bike paraphenalia from OS. Probikekit from the UK is a particularly cheap and fast way to order bike parts. You can save huge amounts here, and for just $18.99AU postage you can have new parts arriving within 7 days. Tyres for example can be as cheap as $30AU.

I agree with what everyone above has said. But the mentioned bike shop is pretty pricey, better deals can be found if you look around. Fit is the most important thing.
A mate of mine has a second hand giant with dura-ace for $1800.
A great bike shop that matches and beats every price is www.phantomcycles.com.au ( I have no financial interest) Kerry is a great guy and always matches prices.
A good secondhand resource is www.cycle2max.com

Thanks for the link Miners.

So you've used them and haven't had any problems? I can hear my credit card screaming already ;)

yep - bad spot for those with hair-trigger credit cards. Great $AU conversion on the website itself (click on the flag if you haven't already done so), and multiple items can be posted under the one $18.99 postal charge.

Bought a pair of the basic KEO graphite pedals on special there 4 months ago. Cost $67 (including postage) and arrived in 4 business days from the order! Even on AUS ebay, these things normally cost about $110. They have a great ordering system with groupsets, where you can uncheck, or change-up any particular item (e.g. order an Ultegra group, but with no crankset, and upgrade to a dura-ace rear derailleur, and still get it as a package). Check the prices on the jackets and sunnies too.

Hope this is still relevant to you burglar and I haven't been guilty of a hijack :)

Gday Hamburglar!

Although I'm far from an expert on cycling (or running, or anything), I do ride around 200+km weekly on a roadbike partly as I dont own a car. Anything I could say about purchasing a bike has already been covered ALTHOUGH very little has been mentioned regarding TRI-SPECIFIC bikes.

The geometry of a tri-bike is fairly different from a roadbike for a number of reasons. The length of the top tube and the angles of the downtube and fork are quite different. Also, most tri-bikes dont use the traditional drop-bars found on roadies but instead allow the rider to assume an aerodynamic position suited to flat tri courses.

Whats the reason for these differences? The pedalling position of a tri-bike ensures that legs are in better shape for the run that follows. Also, the hips and back are angled (shorter toptube and different handlebars) so as to allow for minimum discomfort and ease of transition into the running phase.

The downsides of this setup is that tribikes do not corner or handle as well as a traditional roadbike, and hill climbing can be particularly uncomfortable due to the handlebar configuration.

Most experts suggest that you DONT fix tri bars to a traditional roadbike as it throws your body geometry right out of the window as the toptube is too long and requires you to stretch.

There are tons of articles online regarding tri specific setups, I suggest you check em out.

The Watcher is right.

It's a classic case of 'can't have your cake'. I went for the road specific bike because It was a safer bet if I didnt like the whole triathlon thing.

However it depends on your goals too. Short course triathlons (club level) are often on technical courses and a road bike setup is actually a better option. But if IM is your main focus then a tri specific setup might be the way to go up front.

Just remember for the few K's you do in a race, theres a hell of a lot of training K's behind them. Road bikes are easier to ride on public roads, and especially in group rides. You have your hands near the gears and brakes all the time, and you get a better range of hand positions.

The third option is the conversion. If you start with the right bike you can have a road config, and if you get into tri in a big way then convert to tri setup, but this can cost as much as a new bike in some cases. If you ask Miners nicely (hell, even if you don't ask) he'll tell you all about converting a Kestral from road to tri config. With pictures too ;)

As usual with beginners questions we have ended up with the poor poster getting set up for the world titles on lance's TT bike :) :unsure:
Hamburglar, for $1000 bucks you wont get a lot of bike new. Mnay companies use the same speced frame on a particular range of bikes in their stable and the different models relate to better componentry and wheels.
There are heaps of good bike shops around and you should visit a few of these to get a better picture of what is avialable in you price range.
Try to get a shimano 105 speced bike as a minimum as this will last you and if you get serious down the track and decide to buy a better bike then the older one can become your training bike and the new one your racing bike.
As for warranty...don't let marketing hype fool you!! Trek offer lifetime warranty on their bike frmes as do most brands these days. this is invalid if you buy second hand though.
Go with the road set up, it is cheaper and more versatile and comfortable to ride on and the Tri set up is too expensive anyway. I have raced all distances in tri and duathlon on a road frame a Cannondale and have beaten plenty of tri set up on the bike and on the run. So again don't let hype blind you.
try buy from a bike shop as they will support you with service and advice and you will get the right fitted frame etc. where as if you go 2nd hand and the internet the local bike shop will charge you for any help given as they make their living from selling and servicing bikes.
In my opinion both Giat and Orbea do very well speced bikes at good prices but you need to look around and know what you want.
Miners first post was good but then everybody got offthe track of a cheap entry level bike.
Good hunting and.....Don't believe the hype

I love seeing bike posts on Cool running :)

I agree with most of the posts above, I bought an Avanti Monza for about $1400 when I first got into Tris about 5/6 years ago.

latest me ever since, until I upgraded, massively, but was glad I went in cheap.

Don't get too caught up on components, the higher grades are nice to have that you appreciate a LOT more when you ride on cheaper componentry.

Dura-Ace won't last longer or anything special like that compared to Sora, its just a bucket load lighter and changes amazingly good. But it still wears out and it costs to replace the parts.

If it is Tri specific you are after, you need to look at geometry, Tri bikes, generally have steeper up tube angle than road specific bikes, puts you more forward on the bike.

Try as many bikes as you POSSIBLY can, test ride mates bikes and other peoples bikes when ever you can, go to shops and say i want to try that and this and that again if you like one.

TEST RIDE, TEST RIDE, TEST RIDE, if a bike shop won't let you test ride, walk out and say I will take my business elsewhere. Only buy 2nd hand if you absolutely trust the person, Ive heard some horror stories.

Good 2nd hand bikes can be had from Iroman types who like to recycle bikes, often.

Good luck.

Whatever you do, the most important thing is to get something that fits you like a glove and almost feels effortless to sit on it. It just feels comfy

Thanks everyone for the thoughtful posts which gives me alot to think about.

Cheers!

B+ I think you might want to re-read ALL the thread.

No-one was steering hamburglar to a tri specific bike (let alone Lances TT bike). The Watcher just pointed out that we hadn't addressed that part of Hamburglar's questions and filled in some info.

But back to the topic....B+ mentioned Orbea, they are definitely worth checking out. Same price range as the others I mentioned at the bottom end, but Spanish and very sexy looking bikes. If it hadn't have been a preference for a certain local bike shop I would probably be riding an Orbea myself.

I started Tris late last year on an old mountain bike and when I was sure I was enjoying them I spent $1300 on a new LeMond (same factory as Trek) Reno bike with Tiagra shifters. It has been an awesome purchase.

The only major change I've made to it so far is changing from cage to clip-in pedals and buying clip-in shoes. This has made a massive difference to my riding style and helped conserve energy for the run... Highly recommend!

I would also definately recommend starting out on a road bike, I gather it's far easier to learn to ride on, and far easier to find one in your price range. As others have pointed out on here you can do hundreds of different things to it to make more tri friendly, (adding tri bars etc).

My advice would be to do some races on whatever you can get your hands on to get a feel for it and check that you're into the race itself before laying down your hard earned green on some serious machinery. But I guarantee once you do, you'll never look back... cycling is almost as addictive as running :P

I went through this same scenario and can offer some words on my experience.

I was lucky that I contacted my local tri club (NSTC) and the guy that ran it (Ben) was the distributor for Learsport and I picked up at Learsport 7700 for about $900 I think. Not knowing how much riding I was going to do I was cautious about spending big and wanted to get something that would just get me by, as I’ve been known to rush into things when I’m all excited and 2 months down the road I’ve changed my mind and ruing a rushed decision.

Anyway, I’m still using that bike 2 years on, I have made a few mods, I have ripped off the triple chain ring as it never gets used, a larger front chain ring and an ultegra rear cassette. I’ve done a few races on it and I pass plenty of people on much better bikes, it is a lungs and legs thing after all, I just have to hide my bike in the bushes when having coffee :)

Now I have to admit it’s possibly the ugliest bike on earth, and if we live in a world of bike porn, then I’m afraid I have to reach for the Viagra every ride, but it really does get the job done, and I thrash it to bits commuting each week and sweat all over it on the wind trainer.

I will probably buy another bike soon and spend around 4K on a carbon ultegra model and keep my current bike for commuting and wind trainer sessions, slap some rotors on it and it will do that job for years, and have my new bike for long rides and racing, but it’s a learning process I guess, as I’ve had plenty of stacks and scratched and bent that bike to death, easier to stomach when you‘ve only spent a K!

I wouldn’t buy 2nd hand if you don’t know what you are looking for, just too much of a gamble unless you have someone to help and don’t bother with bars at all yet, just get on the bike and ride your nuts sore. :D

MPH, couldn't agree more, there is a special kind of satisfaction when you've put in the training K's on your entry level road bike and you chew up and spit out guys on their 5k carbon wet dreams in a race.

I'll miss that when my heart finally beats my brain to a pulp and forces me to get some bike porn for myself (you can only fight it so long ;) ).

welcome to the world of wheels.

as a 40+ runner I am riding more and more - I find it a lot easier on the body.

At the risk of repetition I will make the following points:

[*]size, size, size. make sure the bike fits you well. An experienced friend or local bike shop ("LBS") are great to have at this earlier stage.
[*]there is an incredible number of second-hand, low km, high $ value bikes sold a fraction of the new price. Even if some of these bikes have been ridden a bit further than "to church on sunday" that they claim, they are still generally in great condition. There is some real value for money opportunities but as others have said they come at a risk. Take your time and go see some of the bikes. Spend a few hours in various bike shops - it's one of the few shopping trips that I really enjoy.
[*]buying over the internet (I have used probikekit and others with success) will save you significantly on upgrade or replacement parts. Notwithstanding this bike parts are quite expensive relative to what you get when you buy the total package, e.g. if you add the value of all the parts on the Giant TCR then you pretty much get the frame for free. My point here is try to get what you want as part of the original purchase rather than having to purchase later. Personally I wouldn't go below Shimano 105. One thing to watch for is if the value of your purchase exceeds a $ limit (I think it is around $500) then you may get hit for customs duty and hassles.
[*]In terms of $ spent to speed gained the most important thing is to get clipless pedals. This therefre requires you to spend some $ on shoes. Next more imprtant in terms of racing is areobars (but these are not required at entry level nor in training), then you start to get into weight reduction and efficiency especially in rotating parts (wheels and hubs).
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Bikes are a great way to spend money but if you use it regularly, especially for commuting, then they are also a great way to reduce costs too. Some of my friend express wonder at the $5k I spent on my bike but I ride it most days and have had it for 3 years, so if that isn't great value for money entertainment I don't know what is. The same people think nothing of driving into the city, paying $20 for parking and using $20 for petrol (not to mention GHG emmisions), whilst I ride in in about the same amount of time and park under my building for free. Go figure :unsure:

enjoy and ride safe.